In Hollywood... Cemetery

Ever since I started researching the Richmond Vampire for our last blog, I've been hoping for a nice day so I could wander through the winding roads of the Hollywood Cemetery, not just to pay my respects to Mr. Pool, but to explore all of the myriad wonders that this beautiful landmark has to share. Finally, this weekend, my partner and I were able to spend a full afternoon slowly meandering our way from the beautiful front gates, to the stunning river views, and beyond.

Before I tell you about our visit, I wanted to talk a little about cemeteries in general. I confess that growing up I bought into the fear that surrounds them in most conversational circles. For many these days it's a place you visit only when necessary- to say goodbye at funerals, or to pay your respects to passed loved ones from time to time. But that wasn't always the case.

Something I learned quite recently is that cemeteries for many years weren't places to be scared or sad, but were beautiful parks where folks could picnic and enjoy the artistry of the mausoleums and funerary sculptures that dot the landscape. They were a place to celebrate life, not just to mourn death.

I bring this up because those old stigmas and social norms persisted a bit as we entered the grounds- I felt some guilt as I marveled at the blooming magnolias or giggled at the sculpture of a puppy that caught me off guard. As my partner and I read the dates and names and wondered aloud about the lives these people lived, I couldn't help but feel they were lucky to be interred in such a lovely place that is frequented by visitors, not just in mourning, but in curiosity and admiration, filling the air with a much different energy than I've experienced at many other cemeteries.

Hollywood Cemetery is unique, and it has been since the beginning. In 1847, after seeing Mount Auburn Cemetery in Boston, Joshua Fry and William Haxall along with several other Richmonders purchased 42 acres near the James River to establish a similar property in Richmond. It was added onto during the Civil War (we'll get to it) and again in 1877. It now consists of 135 beautiful acres.

The property is hilly and full of mature trees- we saw plenty of magnolias, tulip poplars, and the namesake holly trees. As a matter of fact, it's also an accredited arboretum!

Flitting around the trees and the statues were dozens of birds of all kinds, and of course squirrels dashing about, but at one point we were fortunate enough to turn the corner and encounter some of Hollywood's most famous fauna. I heard tales of deer bounding through the cemetery or congregating in the open fields- not surprising, given its wooded landscape- but I was surprised that the rumors of them being friendly and unafraid of humans was actually quite true. We were able to get close and admire them for a time before we moved on.

The cemetery is also known for its stunning vistas of the James River, and these days, its glimpses of the Richmond skyline. As you make your way to the top of the property and the Presidents Circle, you'll get some really incredible views, and if you travel a bit further to the Palmer Chapel Mausoleum, you'll be rewarded with what I felt were the best sights of all.

So I mentioned a moment ago the Presidents Circle. This is a section of the cemetery established in honor of the pair of U.S. leaders that are buried there. Fun fact- it's the only cemetery other than Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C. to house the remains of two American Presidents. Here you'll find a monument to James Tyler, next to the gothic "birdcage" tomb of James Monroe.

Speaking of historical figures- let's talk Civil War. Hollywood is unofficially known as the National Confederate Cemetery because buried here is Jefferson Davis, president of the confederacy, 25 confederate officers, and over 11,000 confederate soldiers. This is the largest number in one cemetery, and to memorialize them, a 90-foot granite pyramid (the Monument of the Confederate War Dead) was built in 1869.

It's no secret that Richmond has struggled with the balance of preserving history and reckoning with it, and Hollywood Cemetery wasn't left unscathed. While they can't remove every reminder of the confederacy from its grounds, the board of directors did decide to ban the display of confederate flags as of 2020.

It isn't just former presidents and confederate soldiers buried here though. Among those laid to rest on the grounds are a Titanic survivor, a Pulitzer Prize winner, a Supreme Court Justice, suffragists, social activists, philanthropists, Civil Rights activists, and legend says- a vampire. There's also a memorial stone for Dave Brockie, founding member of the band GWAR, though he isn't technically buried there.

I'd be remiss if I ended this without telling you about the local lore and the ghost stories associated with this beautiful local landmark, so let's dive in.

You know all about the Richmond Vampire so I won't rehash that here for you, but check out our last blog for more. This is arguably the most famous of stories from the cemetery, and one that most locals know all about, whether they've visited the cemetery or not.

A story I wasn't familiar with until my visit was that of Florence Rees. Florence was a young girl who passed away at only 3 years old due to scarlet fever. Her tiny grave is guarded by the cast iron statue of a large, fluffy Newfoundland dog. There are many stories as to why the dog is there, possibly because young Florence loved it, possibly because her father wanted to keep it from being used for munitions during the Civil War. Either way, it has stood there for over 150 years, keeping watch over young Florence.

In terms of ghost stories- it is said that the sound of barking and growling can be heard in the vicinity of Florence's grave, perhaps from her canine companion? Rumor has it occasionally the pup has been found turned to face the other way, with no explanation.

There are also tales of cold drafts of air and the moans of soldiers heard near the confederate memorial pyramid. Legend says these are the spirits of some of the thousands of confederate soldiers trapped between our world and the afterlife.

While I am a fan of history and a fan of local lore, one thing that I was constantly reminded of as I was strolling the grounds was that these were all real people, with real lives, and complex stories to tell. As we were leaving, we came across a gentleman carefully grooming a gravesite, cleaning the stone, pulling weeds, and planting new flowers. I'm not sure his relationship to the person buried there, but his dedication and tenderness touched my heart and reminded me of all those who I've loved who have gone before me.

Overall, whether you're looking for history, architecture, nature, or haunts, if you're ever in the Richmond area, you really need to do yourself a favor and set aside a couple of hours to explore this incredible riverside resting place. I promise you won't leave disappointed.